Hong Kong
February 27, 2005
It’s been nearly 10 years since my last trip to Hong Kong and I have a very different perception of the city now. One reason is the different company this time: I traveled with my more adventurous girlfriend instead of my shopaholic mother and sister. Another reason might be that HK is now a PRC SAR instead of being a British colony. Or maybe I have just changed so much in the last decade and have gotten used to many things in Japan that make HK seem so distant and different. Regardless of what the reason is, I’m still at a loss on how I felt the trip went. There were certainly many excellent moments but there were many very frustrating times as well.
Our flight
We were on Cathay flights and for the first time ever, I got to enjoy movies on those individual television screens for each seat. Service on our flight there was bismal, at best. Flight attendants kept hitting me on the shoulder as they walked down the aisle. I wasn’t leaning out of my seat, it’s just those seats are so narrow that my muscular shoulder stuck out. I got hit about three times, each time letting out an, “Ow” to let them know they had hit me. No apologies. I should’ve figured this was a preview of things to come.
Our hotel
We stayed at the Langham Place Hotel in the middle of Mong Kok. It was the best hotel I’ve ever been in. It was luxury beyond imagination. For what we paid, this hotel was the best thing about our trip. Our room was an “Executive” – a beautiful 5-star with a king-sized bed, plasma TV, IP phone system hooked up with the hotel, and a huge marble floor bathroom, plus free DVD rentals downstairs. If the hotel were in a better location (ie. closer to the bay), it’d have been perfect. As it is, it’s connected a mall and a subway station is minutes away.
Differences
I have to say, HK was definitely different. There were way more police and security guards everywhere. Sometimes they travelled in pairs and sometimes alone but in nearly all major buildings and places, there was someone keeping an eye on the place. HK seems to have wanted to clean itself up too, literally. The streets were much cleaner and there was a noted amount of garbage cans. There were some places with garbages cans every 5 meters!
Also, the weather was fairly nice. Although it was very smoggy and cloudy for the first two days, it was a very comfortable 18 degrees. It was rather humid for early February as well. Osaka, in comparison, was a freezing 5 degrees. The last day was perfect – sunny and clear.
International
Maybe it was the fact that it was a British colony for over a century. Maybe it’s an important port to many countries. Whatever the reason is, HK is definitely very internationalized. There were English signs everywhere. My favorite was this cardboard sign put up by construction workers with black markers – it had English on it before Chinese: “Road closed. Turn right Nathenial Road”. They spelled Nathaniel wrong but it was quite impressive regardless.
Many of the people spoke Cantonese, Mandarin, English, and Japanese – that’s 4 distinct languages. Usually they worked in businesses where they relied on travelers.
Shopping
For some reason, everything thinks of HK as some sort of shopping haven. I beg to differ. It’s a well known fact that there is so much pirated crap that it’s impossible to shut it all down. I didn’t buy any pirated stuff. Come to think of it, I didn’t buy much except for an Old Master Q comic (which I’ve since misplaced) and souvenir okashi for friends and coworkers. I didn’t want to go through fake dvds and shit.
As for brand name things, it’s true that some of it is much cheaper. Eri found a Tiffany ring that was about 300 bucks cheaper than Osaka. She didn’t buy it.
Our friendly tour guy did take us to this very shady shop that his “friend” owned. This guy only sells fake shit and only sells to friends and friends of friends. The door opened inwards and was locked by some switch on the wall – we were stuck in there. The both of us had this empathic bond that told us we ‘had’ to buy something from this guy. Eri relented and bought this fake Vuitton key holder. It was shady. I was all ready for fight or flight in that ‘shop’.
We went through “Ladies’ Street’ in Wanchai as well. Imagine those night markets open in Vancouver summers. Imagine a thousand more people. Imagine each stall sells the same crap. Imagine all this crap is useless and ugly (but very cheap) – this was shopping. I saw this thing, I can only describe it as a rubber doll sitting on a plastic toilet that dances when you turn it on. I think humanity would’ve benefitted more if that product was not made.
I’ve reaffirmed my disdain towards shopping in Chinese establishments.
People
Oh boy, this wasn’t my favorite part of my trip. First, there was a huge difference on how people treated us – first, when they saw me as a Japanese traveler (we were in a Japanese group of 10 others), they were extremely rude. The restaurants we went to on this tour was seriously out to rip us off. The dishes they served were shit and they charged so much for drinks. Then, when I spoke Cantonese, thus letting them know I understand all the remarks they make, boy, service 180. They treated much better and even smiled. Restaurant service is definitely shit in HK. There was one dimsum place we went to where the servers glared at you just because you’re looking at them in hopes they come refill the tea. It was also here where they put Eri and I in a table way near the back but none of the dimsum carts ever made it over. In fact, most of the clumped near the middle and just chatted. The one bitch in charge of the white radish cake cart was a super bitch. I went over to her and ordered a plate. She, without even looking at me, just nodded and waved me away. SHE WAVED ME AWAY!?!?!?! In the end, she never gave us our damn dish of white radish cake. We left that restaurant eating maybe 5 things – I was thoroughly pissed.
On the subway, there was this old guy who kept gawking at my girlfriend. That really ticks me off. I don’t mind people looking a little, then looking away but some people just gawk. It’s rude and dangerous (I may flip and bulldoze through them). When we got off, this guy got off as well and walked a little ahead of us. Then he grabs the ass of some old woman in front. Fucking hell. Unfortunately he was too far up and it was too crowded. There were MANY gawkers on the streets which really pissed me off. I am proud that my girlfriend is attractive enough to be gawked at but it makes me so steamed sometimes.
Then, here’s my favorite story about people… on the bus to Lantau to see the big buddha, we were scared that we might not make it back in time for a reservation. I remember this bus takes awhile because I took this bus a long time ago. I asked this teenage girl in front of me how long this bus took. She replied, “I don’t know” – that’s fine, she wasn’t rude or anything, I would’ve just asked another person. THEN her mother leans over and mutters, “Don’t tell him, don’t tell him!” I was speechless. I have no idea why she would not want me to know. It’s not like I seemed like a foreigner – my Chinese sounds perfect. I was flabbergasted on why someone would have such strong negative feelings for helping others… I was asking a simple question!
That’s not to say all people in HK were like this. We had some excellent service in our hotel. We also had dinner at the Chinese restaurant in the Peninsula Hotel – the service was exquisite. Unfortunately, both these places were very expensive places and much like many Chinese establishments in Vancouver, there’s a direct correlation with price and quality of service.
I think I’m too used to the service in Japan. Even mom and pop stores are super nice to customers. To be perfectly honest, I left Hong Kong feeling quite ashamed of being Chinese – I don’t want “my people” to be a bunch of selfish, money grubbing assholes. I think I lean way more towards just being Canadian now than ever.
Summary
I definitely dislike HK people more. I do like HK overall – it’s a lively, international city which made me miss home a lot. I wish I had more time to go to better restaurants than the one this tour went to. I wish I could go shopping for real and buy things which have a purpose for a bargain. I think one day I’d like to live in HK for a longer time so that I can understand it more. All the things I disliked on this trip were fairly superficial – I want to see what makes this place work inside.
Suggestions
Definitely visit the Hong Kong Science Museum. The section about the 3+ years of Japanese occupation during the war was very interesting, seeing how I’ve been living in Japan. The museum is huge and only costed a few bucks to get in.
Avoid the subway during rush hour or you’ll be pissed off like me. Although I have to say, people did wait for others to get off the train before rushing in – something which Japanese people don’t follow that rigidly.
Tip! I forgot about tipping and had to be reminded. Although the service definitely doesn’t warrant a tip sometimes.
If punks stare you down, just stare them back down. You’re a lot bigger and badder than them anyway. Be careful that some of those punk ass guys may actually be girls; fashion in HK is definitely an area people can work on and this is coming from a guy who lives in Japan. Oh yeah, compared to Japan, people are much uglier on average. Seriously! I’m no Tom Cruise but… gyah!
Don’t visit the peak if the day’s cloudy – you seriously cannot see shit. In the building at the peak, avoid everything that costs money. They’re all shitty stores selling shitty souvenirs. If you must buy shitty souvenirs, go to Stanley instead – it’s cheaper.
February 27th, 2005 at 23:29
This update was a long time coming. I was out of pre-written updates and I was most certainly in no mood to update lately. Unfortunately, I don’t see updates being regular for the next while.
February 28th, 2005 at 06:33
Dammit, I was just about to write “Hooray! It’s the return of Jerry!” but then he beat me to the punch with that downer of a first post.
Anyhow, I don’t like Hong Kongers or Chinese in general just for that racist attitude you described in detail. I think gawkers aren’t necessarily gawking at your pretty girlfriend, though. I’m not saying your woman isn’t pretty, but I get the feeling most times it’s more because you’re dating someone who’s not Chinese. It’s probably a mixture of jealousy, racism, and snobbiness. I wonder what other people in interracial relationships have to say about this?
Anyhow that was a good read but… no pictures?
February 28th, 2005 at 09:51
I grew up in Toronto and a lot of my good friends are Chinese, but unless they`re ABCs, CBCs, etc Chinese people can be unbelievably frustrating. My three week trip to China was just bargain, bargain, bargain and that`s just for bottled water! Granted, they`re not living in paradise, but they love ripping foreigners off. Rudeness seems to be an art, and my good friend who was born in Canada, HATES Chinese people and never wants to go back to China to visit.
February 28th, 2005 at 11:12
I don’t think it was racism at all. You can’t tell my girlfriend isn’t Chinese. She got spoken to in Chinese several times before. I think it was just a lack of common courtesy. I know the old adage, “When in Rome…” but people in Rome weren’t that rude, were they?
I think it’s sad that we have these negative views. It’s where my roots are and where my family grew up.
It’s not to say my trip wasn’t fun, I certainly enjoyed many aspects of it.
February 28th, 2005 at 14:45
I have a certain love for Hong Kong because of it’s extreme assholes. Quite frankly, this is an aspect of Asian Culture that i’ve grown to find great amusement in. When i’m not immersed in it for a while, i actually miss it. So yes, people are assholes, but this is something that i’ve always known. At least no one touched Eri or anything. It could have been loads worse had she been alone. If there is something that i’ve learned with age it’s that i have no problem shoving and pushing people aside in Hong Kong, China or any other Asian Country for that matter. Yeh that’s right…push this 85 pounder aside and she’ll be right up on your mofo ass!! GRRRR…
I suspect that since you’re so used to the hyper respectful culture of Japan, that Hong Kong was a horrible shock to the system.
March 1st, 2005 at 03:07
I’ve never been a big fan of people from Hong Kong, but that does paint them all with the same brush. I’ve met my fair share of nice HK ppl as well as people who are total jerks.
As for the blatant racism, remember that it wasn’t so long ago that the Japanese and Chinese were at war with each other. Our grandparents were probably told stories of the Rape of Nanking, and these stories still get told in history classes around China. I’m not trying to justify any of their actions but rather try to offer an explanation.
As for those perverted old men… I dunno. I got nothing to say. That’s just wrong and you should just lay the smack down on those perverts.
March 1st, 2005 at 18:36
There are perverts everywhere, young and old, regardless of race. I should know, I’m one.
March 4th, 2005 at 03:51
I’m glad to see I’m not the only one who’s noticed that HK has gotten worse (in the ways you’ve mentioned) since the communists took over.
Much of that arrogance and what not you wrote about you will get in spades the moment you cross the border north.
When I’m in HK, I usually travel solo and I don’t get hassled too much (big ABC with shaved head). Of course, when I open my mouth and broken Cantonese comes out, the ppl I’m trying to speak to kick down into english. Funny, the same thing happened in Paris too!
My first visit to your blog. Nice! And I’m also planning to apply to Nova too.
Last thing: You’re not supposed to tip in HK! In China however, it’s evolved into an entitlement like it is here in the States…
March 4th, 2005 at 10:53
Hey abraxis, good luck on your application. Let me know if you have any questions about Nova.
March 13th, 2005 at 11:47
I enjoyed your blog immensely. You are welcome to http://sevencastles.blogchina.com, my Shanghai blog featuring news and views of great interest